The route of the North Beach to South Park omnibus is superimposed on a 1858 US Coast Survey map of San Francisco (courtesy of Wikipedia). In 1858, 16 horse-drawn omnibuses, working for two competing companies, carried 2,400 passengers a day along this route. |
This description of the sights and sounds of an omnibus ride from North Beach to South Park in 1857 was written by H.L.N., a contributor to Hutching's Illustrated California Magazine. It makes an interesting pair with the more philosophical description of a similar ride from 1859 which I posted last month.
An omnibus waiting for passengers at the Plaza. Detail of a photograph from G.R. Fardon's San Francisco Album (Bancroft) |
AN OMNIBUS RIDE.
Jump in — only a shilling from North
Beach to Rincon Point — the whole length of the city: twelve
tickets for a dollar. Gentlemen, jump in — make way for the ladies
— and, bless me! do crowd closer for the babies. One, two, three,
four! actually seven of these dear little humanities. Here we go,
right through Stockton Street. Four years ago this was one long level
of mud in the rainy season — not such a luxury as an omnibus
thought of. Tramp went the pedestrian the length and breadth thereof,
thankful for side-walks. But now note the handsome private
residences, the neat flower gardens, the fruit stands, the elegant
stores in Virginia Block, the display in the windows both sides the
way — dry goods, toys, stationery, tin ware, &c, &c.
The Cobweb Palace at the foot of Meiggs' Wharf, near where the omnibus started. (Bancroft) |
But let us get in at the starting
point. Leaving the promenade which makes Meiggs' wharf so pleasant of
a summer morning, we step into one of the coaches, which are ready
every eight minutes, according to the advertisement; run along
Powell street a few squares, catching glimpses here and there of the
greatest variety of architecture in the residences, and remarking
upon the neatness of those recently erected; thence down a square
into Stockton street, where the attention is distracted between the
outside prospect and the protection of one's own limbs from the
fearful thumping into divers holes which the ponderous vehicle
encounters every few minutes.
Steady now — we have passed the worst
part, and there is the State Marine Hospital, — quite a respectable
amount of brick and mortar, patched at the rear with appurtenances of
lumber, and which in its time has used up more "appropriations" than would comfortably have supported three times the number of sick
within its walls. It is at present in the hands of the Sisters of
Mercy.
Passengers in a London omnibus, by William May Egley, 1859. (Tate Gallery) |
There! make room for the lady in hoops!
only a shilling for all that whalebone! so now — let out the thin
spare man, he fears suffocation — and the nervous gentleman too
wants to alight; that baby has whooping cough, and annoys him. Poor
bachelor! he cannot begin to comprehend infantile graces, and he
votes the whole race a bore; while glancing satirically at the lady,
he observes to his friend, the spare man, “Poor little sufferer,
how it hoops.”
Stockton street, from Fardon's 1856 San Francisco Album (Bancroft) |
Rows of pretty cottages on one side the
street — handsome brick buildings on the other — and at the
corner of Stockton and Washington, a private garden laid out with
exquisite taste and neatness. A refreshing fountain sends its spray
over the blossoms of the sweet roses and verbena, while the graceful
malva trees stand sentinel at the gateway. Only a passing glance,
however, for the turn is accomplished, and down Washington street to
Montgomery is generally a pretty rapid descent.
The Plaza (Portsmouth Square) in 1856, looking towards Washington street, along which the omnibus would have passed. (San Francisco Public Library) |
That is a family market near the corner
of Washington — quite convenient these — the nicest of
vegetables, the best of meats, procurable at market prices. We
up-towners could scarcely dispense with them. Past the Plaza — how
well I remember that formerly as a receptacle for old clothes, cast
off boots and shoes, cans, bottles, crockery ware, skeleton specimens
of the feline race — dogs who had had their day — rats whose race
was run, and various other abominations; but a treasure heap to the
rag pickers, or bottle venders, who in those days were not. But now
the Plaza has been smoothed into shape, and if the green things
within its borders are perfected by sun and rain, it may yet flourish
into grace and beauty.
Montgomery street, featuring the Montgomery Block, from Fardon's (1856) San Francisco Album (Wikipedia). |
Montgomery Street, from Fardon's 1856 San Francisco Album (Bancroft) |
The Frenchman with his “bon soir”
greets you; the Spaniard and Italian, the Chinese, German, Mexican.
The rose, the thistle, and shamrock [i.e. England, Scotland, and
Ireland] have each their representatives, and beside these many
others born in remote regions are congregated in this great
thoroughfare of cities.
The view up Second street from Rincon Hill towards Market; from Fardon's 1856 San Francisco Album (Bancroft). |
The waterfront, viewed from Second and Folsom; from Fardon's 1856 San Francisco Album (SFMOMA). |
Adjoining this, on Folsom street, is
another stately private residence — another lovely garden, where
luxuriant flower growths may be seen at almost any season of the
year. Nearly opposite is Hawthorne street. Ah! what associations of
“Seven Gabled Houses” are connected with that name. But the eye
rests upon none such — only a line of pretty cottages are peeped at
ere we are driven past into Third street.
A Daily Alta California ad for one of the two omnibus companies in San Francisco (California Digital Newspaper Collection). |
South Park looking west, from Fardon's 1856 San Francisco Album (SFMOMA). |
South Park — a passenger stops. There
is a homelike appearance in this solitary row of uniform houses,
charming to one who recalls images of long streets, whose “white
marble steps” have no parallel in San Francisco. But beyond us is
Rincon Point — and in view of the blue waters, the omnibus stops.
Nurses and babies alight, and the inquiring passenger strolls, where?
Perhaps I may tell you in my next.
By the early 1860s, the omnibus line had been replaced by horse-drawn streetcars such as this one (San Francisco Public Library). |
For more on the history of San Francisco transit, see San Francisco's Transportation Octopus.
See Also:
A Bus Ride through San Francisco in 1859
A New York City Cab Ride in 1840
Streetcar Wars of San Francisco History, Vol. III
The Jitney Stand at 18th and Castro in 1915
A History of San Francisco's Cab Industry, in Advertisements